Author: AK

Having a wonderful time exploring tangents life throws at me.
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Tips to Keeping Run (Ground) Dry

🐔 1. Improve Drainage Before You Build

If the area already holds moisture, addressing drainage first will save you a ton of hassle later.

✅ Slightly Elevate the Coop & Run

  • If possible, raise the entire coop and run by adding a gravel base (4-6 inches deep).
  • This helps water drain away instead of pooling inside the run.

✅ Dig a French Drain (For Persistent Wet Areas)

  • If water naturally collects, dig a shallow trench filled with gravel and a perforated pipe to redirect water away from the run.
  • Cover it with more gravel or soil to blend in.

✅ Add a Sand or Gravel Layer Under the Run

  • Before adding bedding, lay down 2-4 inches of coarse sand or pea gravel to help with drainage.

🐔 2. Use the Right Bedding for Dry Ground

The best moisture-wicking bedding depends on your climate and preference.

✅ Coarse Sand (Best Overall for Drainage & Cleanliness)

  • Doesn’t hold moisture like dirt or straw.
  • Drains quickly and is easy to clean with a rake.
  • Chickens love to dust bathe in it.

✅ Gravel Base + Organic Bedding (For Heavier Rains)

  • 1-2 inches of gravel under bedding helps prevent mud.
  • On top, use pine shavings, chopped straw, or hemp bedding (all dry quickly).

✅ Deep Litter Method (For Cold or Wet Climates)

  • Instead of frequent cleaning, let bedding build up over time (6-12 inches deep).
  • Microbial action breaks down waste and generates warmth.
  • Works best with pine shavings, straw, or hemp bedding.

🐔 3. Cover & Divert Water from the Run

Even with shade, rain can make things muddy unless you manage it well.

✅ Waterproof Roofing or Tarp

  • If the run has a cover, make sure it’s pitched so rain runs off.
  • Use corrugated plastic or metal roofing for the best long-term protection.

✅ Gutters & Rain Barrels

  • If the coop has a roof, add a gutter system to catch rainwater.
  • Direct it away from the run or collect it for watering plants.

✅ Extend the Roof Beyond the Run Edges

  • Overhangs prevent rain from dripping inside the run and soaking the ground.

🐔 4. Keep Water Sources From Creating Mud

Sometimes, the waterer itself is the problem!

✅ Use Nipple or Cup Waterers Instead of Open Bowls

  • This prevents water from spilling and making a muddy mess.
  • Mount it off the ground to avoid splashing.

✅ Place Waterers on a Raised Platform

  • Use bricks, pavers, or a wooden pallet to keep them off the wet ground.

✅ Create a “Dry Zone” With Gravel or Sand

  • Around the waterer, place a small ring of sand, gravel, or stone pavers to absorb spills.

🐔 5. Rotate & Aerate the Run to Keep It Fresh

If your run is fixed, moisture buildup is inevitable—so maintenance is key.

✅ Rake & Turn the Bedding Weekly

  • Stirring bedding helps it dry faster and prevents compaction.

✅ Move the Run Occasionally (If Possible)

  • If you can, let an area rest while another section is used.

✅ Add Ventilation to the Coop & Run

  • Even in shade, extra airflow will help bedding dry faster.

🐔 What’s the Best Setup for Your Space?

If your run is completely fixed, I’d recommend:
✅ A slightly raised, well-drained gravel base
✅ Coarse sand + deep litter bedding
✅ A sloped roof with gutters to redirect rain
✅ A raised waterer to prevent spills

Layering the Ground in the Main Run:

  1. Pea Gravel (Base Layer)
    • Depth: 2-4 inches
    • This acts as the drainage layer. The gravel allows any excess moisture to flow through and keeps the ground from getting waterlogged.
    • It also helps elevate the bedding, so your chickens aren’t walking directly on damp soil.
  2. Coarse Sand (Middle Layer)
    • Depth: 2-4 inches
    • Sand is excellent for drainage and will help the bedding dry out more quickly, especially in wet or rainy conditions. It also helps keep the ground from becoming muddy.
    • Chickens love to dust bathe in sand, so it’s a great addition for both moisture control and chicken enrichment.
  3. Pine Shavings (Top Layer)
    • Depth: 2-4 inches (adjust based on how often you clean)
    • Pine shavings absorb moisture and odors, and they’re soft for your chickens’ feet.
    • This layer will also serve as a comfortable bedding for your chickens, keeping them dry and cozy.

Why This Works:

  • Pea gravel creates good drainage so moisture doesn’t build up.
  • Sand wicks away moisture and makes the area more comfortable for chickens to scratch and dust bathe in.
  • Pine shavings soak up any remaining moisture, while also providing bedding for comfort and hygiene.

This should keep things dry, clean, and comfortable the girls, even during rainy seasons.

🌟 Weekly Maintenance:

  1. Rake the Bedding
    • Fluff up the pine shavings and sand to help them dry out and aerate the bedding.
    • This will also help prevent it from becoming compacted and allow moisture to escape.
  2. Check for Wet Spots
    • If any areas seem to be holding water, you can add more gravel or sand to improve drainage in those spots.
    • Make sure there are no puddles forming, as standing water can lead to bacteria or mold growth.
  3. Clean Out the Waterers
    • If you’re using open water bowls, rinse them weekly to prevent algae growth and keep them clean.
    • Nipple or cup waterers are a great option to reduce spills and prevent dampness.

🌟 Monthly Maintenance:

  1. Turn Over the Bedding
    • Stir up the bedding in the run to keep it from becoming too compacted.
    • This helps air circulate, which speeds up the drying process and keeps the area fresher.
  2. Top Off Bedding Layers
    • If the bedding has settled, add a fresh layer of pine shavings to ensure your chickens have a clean, soft surface to walk on.
  3. Check for Gaps in the Hardware Cloth
    • Inspect the run’s hardware cloth for any weak spots or potential openings that could allow predators to squeeze through.
  4. Check the Roof/Canopy
    • If your run has a tarp or roof, make sure it’s still intact and that no rainwater is pooling on top.

🌟 Seasonal Maintenance:

  1. Spring Cleaning (After Winter)
    • This is a great time to do a more thorough cleaning of the entire run and coop.
    • Deep clean the floor by removing old bedding and replenishing with fresh material.
    • Scrub the waterers and feeders, and inspect the coop for any wear and tear from the weather.
  2. Winter Prep
    • Before cold weather hits, make sure your run’s roof is waterproof and all the bedding layers are in good shape.
    • You may want to add more insulation or move the waterer to an area that’s more protected from freezing.

🌟 Occasional Maintenance:

  1. Add More Gravel or Sand
    • If you notice any spots that have become too soggy, add gravel or sand to improve drainage and help dry out the ground.
    • Gravel can be added underneath the sand layer if needed, or you can top off the sand layer to keep it dry and clean.
  2. Check for Pest Activity
    • If you’re in a humid area, check the bedding for signs of mold or fungus.
    • If you notice pests or smell mildew, you may need to replace some of the bedding and improve ventilation.

🌟 Bonus Tips:

  • Rotating or Moving Your Run: If you’re able to move the run occasionally, it can help prevent wear on the ground and provide your girls with fresh areas to explore.
  • Use a Compost Pile: Over time, bedding will break down, so consider starting a compost pile for the old material. Chickens love to help turn the compost if it’s near the run!
  • Watch for Scratching: Chickens are great at scratching to find bugs and worms, but they can also create uneven ground. If this becomes a problem, you can add more bedding and top it off every couple of weeks.

These simple but consistent steps should help maintain a dry, healthy, and happy environment for your flock year-round! 🐓💧

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Rain Barrel Set-Up

Supplies You’ll Need (Chicken-Safe Materials)

Guttering System:

  • PVC or aluminum gutters (avoid lead-based materials or any painted/coated materials that may contain toxins)
  • Downspout (PVC or aluminum)
  • Gutter hangers or brackets (to attach the gutter to the coop)
  • End caps (to close off the gutter ends)
  • Leaf guard or mesh screen (to keep leaves and debris out)

Rainwater Collection & Filtration:

  • Food-grade rain barrel (55-gallon or more, BPA-free plastic or stainless steel)
  • Downspout diverter (optional but helps direct water to the barrel)
  • First-flush diverter (removes initial dirty runoff before filling the barrel)
  • Screen filter (fine mesh to prevent debris, insects, and algae)
  • Spigot & overflow hose (to control water output and prevent overflow)
  • Non-toxic sealant (for leak-proofing)

Water Distribution System:

  • PVC pipes or food-grade hoses (to move water from the barrel to the chicken waterers)
  • Gravity-fed chicken waterer or poultry nipples/cups (to provide clean, fresh water)
  • Drip irrigation line (if you want a slow-feed system)
  • Blackout cover for the rain barrel (to prevent algae growth)

How to Rig It Up

  1. Install Gutters on the Coop Roof
    • Attach the gutters along the roof edge using brackets.
    • Ensure a slight slope toward the downspout (about 1/4 inch per foot for proper drainage).
    • Secure end caps to prevent leaks.
  2. Connect Downspout to the Rain Barrel
    • Position the barrel near the downspout on a raised, level surface (cinder blocks or a wooden platform).
    • Attach the downspout diverter to direct rainwater into the barrel.
    • Install a first-flush diverter (optional but helps remove dirt and contaminants from the roof before water enters the barrel).
  3. Filter the Water
    • Place a fine mesh screen at the barrel opening to block debris and insects.
    • Use a secondary inline filter if needed.
  4. Distribute Water to the Chickens
    • Install a spigot near the base of the rain barrel.
    • Attach a food-grade hose or PVC pipe to lead water to a gravity-fed chicken waterer or a system with poultry nipples.
    • Elevate the barrel to ensure good water pressure if using gravity flow.
  5. Overflow Management
    • Connect an overflow hose to divert excess water away from the coop and prevent flooding.
    • Direct overflow into a garden or drainage area.

Keeping the Water Fresh & Safe for Chickens

  • Prevent Algae Growth:
    • Use a dark-colored or covered rain barrel to block sunlight.
    • Add a small amount of food-grade hydrogen peroxide (3% solution) or apple cider vinegar (1 tablespoon per gallon) to deter algae.
  • Prevent Mosquitoes & Debris:
    • Keep all openings covered with fine mesh.
    • Use a floating mosquito dunk (Bacillus thuringiensis israelensis, BTI, safe for animals).
  • Winter Maintenance:
    • If you live in a freezing climate, consider an insulated or heated watering system.
    • Drain the system before freezing temperatures arrive if you’re not using a winter-proof solution.
  • Regular Cleaning:
    • Clean the rain barrel and water lines monthly with diluted vinegar or food-grade hydrogen peroxide.
    • Flush the gutters and first-flush diverter seasonally.

Bonus Ideas

  • Dual Watering System: If you want a backup, set up a manual fill option (a separate water source) in case of drought.
  • Garden Integration: Use overflow water for garden irrigation near the coop.
  • Automated Float Valve: Install a float valve in your chicken waterer to keep water at a consistent level.

This setup ensures your chickens always have access to clean, fresh water with minimal effort! Let me know if you need help tweaking the design for your specific setup. 😊

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Chick Growth Milestones & Care Adjustments

Week 1: Getting Settled

  • Milestones: Learning to eat, drink, and explore their brooder. Sleeping a lot but also active in short bursts.
  • Care: Keep them in a warm brooder at 90-95°F with a heat source. Ensure they have clean water with probiotics/electrolytes, starter feed, and baby chick grit if they are eating anything other than crumble (like tiny treats or greens).

Week 2-3: Feather Growth & Exploration

  • Milestones: Wing feathers developing; starting to flutter and hop.
  • Care: Lower brooder temp by ~5°F per week (so aim for 85-90°F in week 2, then 80-85°F in week 3).
  • Food & Water: Still on chick starter feed. You can introduce occasional soft treats (like scrambled eggs or finely chopped greens) with chick grit.

Week 4-5: Feathering Out & Curious Behavior

  • Milestones: Growing tail feathers, becoming more independent.
  • Care: Brooder temp around 75-80°F. If they’re in a warm area, they might not need supplemental heat during the day.
  • Food & Water: Continue chick starter feed. Offer fresh water daily.

Week 6-8: Transition to the Coop

  • Milestones: Almost fully feathered. Can regulate body temperature better.
  • Care: If nighttime temps are above 50°F, they can transition outside. Ensure their coop is predator-proof.
  • Food & Water: At 6 weeks, you can start phasing in grower feed if they’re not staying on starter until 8 weeks. (Grower feed has less protein than starter but supports steady growth.)

Week 8-16: Adolescence (“Pullets”)

  • Milestones: Combs & wattles begin developing. Some early egg-layers may start showing interest in nesting areas.
  • Care: They’re now fully adjusted to outdoor life and can free-range or explore a run.
  • Food & Water: Switch fully to grower feed. No layer feed yet—it has too much calcium for growing birds!

Week 16-20+: Preparing for Laying

  • Milestones: Hens may start squatting when touched (a sign eggs are coming soon).
  • Care: Provide a nest box with soft bedding and encourage them to check it out.
  • Food & Water: Switch to layer feed around 18-20 weeks, when they are close to laying. Introduce free-choice oyster shell for calcium.

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Chick Vaccines & Medications

Common Vaccines & Medications for Chicks

  1. Marek’s Disease Vaccine
    • What It Prevents: Marek’s is a highly contagious and often fatal viral disease that causes tumors and paralysis in chickens.
    • When to Vaccinate: At hatch or within 24 hours for best protection, but you can still give it later if needed.
    • How to Administer:
      • It’s an injection (subcutaneous, under the skin, at the back of the neck).
      • Vaccine comes in a frozen vial that must be mixed and used quickly.
      • You’ll need sterile syringes and needles (often 0.5 mL per chick).
  2. Coccidiosis Prevention (Medicated Feed or Amprolium)
    • What It Prevents: A common parasite that causes diarrhea, weakness, and death in young chicks.
    • How to Prevent:
      • Medicated chick starter feed (contains amprolium) – Easiest way to protect them.
      • Amprolium (Corid) in water – If you’re using unmedicated feed, you can mix this into their drinking water if needed.
  3. Newcastle Disease & Infectious Bronchitis Vaccine(Optional but Recommended)
    • What It Prevents: Respiratory diseases that spread easily and cause coughing, sneezing, and egg production issues.
    • When to Vaccinate: Around 2 weeks old, with a booster later.
    • How to Administer: Given as eye drops, spray, or in drinking water.
  4. Fowl Pox Vaccine(Optional, if mosquitoes are common in your area)
    • What It Prevents: A virus spread by mosquitoes that causes wart-like lesions.
    • When to Vaccinate: At 4 weeks old.
    • How to Administer: A wing-web stab (poke a small needle into the wing web).

Where to Get Vaccines?

  • Local farm supply stores (some may carry Marek’s or Coccidiosis prevention).
  • Online hatchery suppliers (Meyer Hatchery, Stromberg’s, McMurray Hatchery).
  • Veterinarians who work with poultry (some carry vaccines or can order them).

General Care for Healthy Chicks

  • Heat: Keep the brooder at 95°F the first week, then decrease by 5°F each week.
  • Feed & Water: Provide clean, fresh water at all times.
  • Bedding: Pine shavings work well (avoid cedar).
  • Socialization: Handle them gently to get them used to you!
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Best—and Worst—Chicken Breeds for Cold Climates

For Grand Rapids, MI, you’ll want cold-hardy breeds that can handle snowy winters and occasional hot summers. You’ll also want breeds that are predator-savvy since you’re in the woods. Here are some great options for your climate and setting:

Best Cold-Hardy, Predator-Savvy Chicken Breeds

Plymouth Rock (Barred Rock) 🖤⚪

  1. Hardy in cold & heat, lays 250+ brown eggs/year
  2. Smart, predator-aware, and friendly
  3. Dual-purpose (good for eggs & meat)

Australorp (Black Australorp)

    1. Super cold-hardy, lays 250-300 large brown eggs/year
    2. Calm, docile, and easy to handle
    3. Black feathers help absorb warmth in winter

    Wyandotte (Silver or Gold Laced) 🖤🟡⚪

      1. Very cold-hardy with a rose comb (less prone to frostbite)
      2. Lays 200-250 brown eggs/year
      3. Independent, predator-aware, and good foragers

      Orpington (Buff Orpington) 🟡

        1. Cold-hardy due to fluffy feathers, lays 200-280 brown eggs/year
        2. Very gentle and affectionate (great if you want friendly birds)
        3. A bit less predator-savvy, so they need a secure run

        Rhode Island Red ❤️

          1. Tough, predator-savvy, lays 250-300 brown eggs/year
          2. Hardy in all weather, strong forager
          3. Can be a little feisty but great for a mixed flock

          Dominique ⚫⚪

            1. Similar to Barred Rocks but with a rose comb (better for frostbite prevention)
            2. Great foragers, very predator-aware
            3. Lays 230-270 brown eggs/year

            Easter Egger 🥚 (Colorful Egg Layers!)

              1. Super hardy, lays 200-250 blue/green eggs per year
              2. Friendly and curious, good for beginners
              3. Predator-aware and good at hiding

              Breeds to Avoid for Your Area

              🚫 Leghorns – Great layers but have big combs that get frostbite easily.
              🚫 Silkies – Too small and fluffy; they don’t handle cold or predators well.
              🚫 Polish – Their head crests block vision, making them easy predator targets.

              Would you like a mix of breeds or are you leaning toward one type? If you want variety, a mix of Wyandottes, Barred Rocks, and Easter Eggers would give you a beautiful, diverse flock with great egg production!