Rain Barrel Set-Up

Supplies You’ll Need (Chicken-Safe Materials)

Guttering System:

  • PVC or aluminum gutters (avoid lead-based materials or any painted/coated materials that may contain toxins)
  • Downspout (PVC or aluminum)
  • Gutter hangers or brackets (to attach the gutter to the coop)
  • End caps (to close off the gutter ends)
  • Leaf guard or mesh screen (to keep leaves and debris out)

Rainwater Collection & Filtration:

  • Food-grade rain barrel (55-gallon or more, BPA-free plastic or stainless steel)
  • Downspout diverter (optional but helps direct water to the barrel)
  • First-flush diverter (removes initial dirty runoff before filling the barrel)
  • Screen filter (fine mesh to prevent debris, insects, and algae)
  • Spigot & overflow hose (to control water output and prevent overflow)
  • Non-toxic sealant (for leak-proofing)

Water Distribution System:

  • PVC pipes or food-grade hoses (to move water from the barrel to the chicken waterers)
  • Gravity-fed chicken waterer or poultry nipples/cups (to provide clean, fresh water)
  • Drip irrigation line (if you want a slow-feed system)
  • Blackout cover for the rain barrel (to prevent algae growth)

How to Rig It Up

  1. Install Gutters on the Coop Roof
    • Attach the gutters along the roof edge using brackets.
    • Ensure a slight slope toward the downspout (about 1/4 inch per foot for proper drainage).
    • Secure end caps to prevent leaks.
  2. Connect Downspout to the Rain Barrel
    • Position the barrel near the downspout on a raised, level surface (cinder blocks or a wooden platform).
    • Attach the downspout diverter to direct rainwater into the barrel.
    • Install a first-flush diverter (optional but helps remove dirt and contaminants from the roof before water enters the barrel).
  3. Filter the Water
    • Place a fine mesh screen at the barrel opening to block debris and insects.
    • Use a secondary inline filter if needed.
  4. Distribute Water to the Chickens
    • Install a spigot near the base of the rain barrel.
    • Attach a food-grade hose or PVC pipe to lead water to a gravity-fed chicken waterer or a system with poultry nipples.
    • Elevate the barrel to ensure good water pressure if using gravity flow.
  5. Overflow Management
    • Connect an overflow hose to divert excess water away from the coop and prevent flooding.
    • Direct overflow into a garden or drainage area.

Keeping the Water Fresh & Safe for Chickens

  • Prevent Algae Growth:
    • Use a dark-colored or covered rain barrel to block sunlight.
    • Add a small amount of food-grade hydrogen peroxide (3% solution) or apple cider vinegar (1 tablespoon per gallon) to deter algae.
  • Prevent Mosquitoes & Debris:
    • Keep all openings covered with fine mesh.
    • Use a floating mosquito dunk (Bacillus thuringiensis israelensis, BTI, safe for animals).
  • Winter Maintenance:
    • If you live in a freezing climate, consider an insulated or heated watering system.
    • Drain the system before freezing temperatures arrive if you’re not using a winter-proof solution.
  • Regular Cleaning:
    • Clean the rain barrel and water lines monthly with diluted vinegar or food-grade hydrogen peroxide.
    • Flush the gutters and first-flush diverter seasonally.

Bonus Ideas

  • Dual Watering System: If you want a backup, set up a manual fill option (a separate water source) in case of drought.
  • Garden Integration: Use overflow water for garden irrigation near the coop.
  • Automated Float Valve: Install a float valve in your chicken waterer to keep water at a consistent level.

This setup ensures your chickens always have access to clean, fresh water with minimal effort! Let me know if you need help tweaking the design for your specific setup. 😊

Plainfield Township “Farm Animal” Ordinances

https://www.plainfieldmi.org/news_detail_T10_R374.php

The Township’s zoning ordinance defines what type of animals are allowed on certain properties to ensure the community’s safety and wellbeing. The zoning ordinance allows residents to keep chickens on their property if they are more than 25 feet from a home or property line. Roosters are prohibited. The Township does not require permits to own chickens or other domestic and farm animals.

Additionally, the Township allows:

  • Domestic animals. This includes cats, dogs, chinchillas, ferrets, fish and non-venomous lizards, snakes, and spiders, as well as caged amphibians, birds and rodents.
  • Farm animals. This includes horses, pigs, cattle, sheep, goats, llamas, chickens, geese, ducks, waterfowls, turkeys or any other animal raised for commercial profit.

Unlike domestic animals, farm animals can only be kept on larger properties. Specifically, farm animals kept within a structure must be at least 50 feet from any property line. Free-range farm animals must be kept at least 100 feet from any property line with the exception of chickens or domesticated waterfowl, which fall under the regulations listed above.

The Township does not allow residents to keep wild animals of any kind on their property. All animal owners are responsible for keeping the animals on their own property, as well ensuring living conditions are safe and clean.

You can learn more about the Township’s zoning ordinance pertaining to animals, by clicking here and reviewing Section 3.02.

With the growing popularity of backyard chicken keeping, the Township has seen an increase in inquiries from residents. The Zoning Ordinance establishes guidelines for animal ownership to protect the community. Here’s the scoop on keeping chickens: 

  • Permitted with Restrictions: Chickens are allowed, but coops and runs must be at least 25 feet away from neighboring homes and property lines. 
  • No Roosters: Those noisy alarm clocks are prohibited. 
  • No Permits Required: You don’t need a special permit for chickens or other domestic/farm animals. 

Plainfield Township classifies animals as follows: 

  • Domestic Animals: Cats, dogs, chinchillas, ferrets, fish, non-venomous reptiles, caged amphibians, birds, and rodents fall into this category. 
  • Farm Animals: Horses, pigs, cattle, sheep, goats, llamas, chickens, geese, ducks, other waterfowl, turkeys, and animals raised for commercial purposes. These have stricter setback requirements (50ft for structures, 100ft free-range), except chickens and domesticated waterfowl which follow the 25ft rule. 
  • Wild Animals: Keeping wild animals is prohibited. 

All animal owners must keep their animals confined to their property and provide clean, safe living conditions. 

For the full details on the Township’s Zoning Ordinance related to animals, click here and review Section 3.02. Have additional questions? Contact the Community Development Department with any questions at (616) 364-1190 .   

Spanish Goats – General Care

Caring for Spanish Goats as Pets

Compared to other breeds, they are rather simple to care for and are suitable for homesteading.

Should you decide to raise Spanish goats after weighing the pros and cons, here are some tips on how to raise them.

Provide Enclosure or Fence

Spanish goats need fences and shelter against snow, rain, high heat, and wind like other animals, despite being hardy.

So, your fence must be sturdy to withstand any damage the goats may do. And because this species can jump so high, the wall should be at least 4 to 5 feet.

Additionally, it should be secure enough so no one can push it down. 

These goats would try anything to escape a confined space, especially if the food on the other side attracts them. 

To keep them as safe as possible, secure the fence firmly in the ground and space the posts no more than 8 feet apart.

When building your fence, you can use woven wire, welded wire, or cattle panels as the material of your choice. 

To stop them from bending or jumping over the fence, you can run a line of electric wire through the enclosure. The house must, however, be capable of keeping the goat within and predators outside.

Give them Company

Whether you raise Spanish goats for pet or income purposes, it’s always important to have a company. Why?

They need someone to play with them to relieve their stress, and they won’t feel lonely. If you raise them for commercial purposes, they definitely need a partner to reproduce.

Proper Bedding

The bedding for your pet should be soft when it walks or lays down and capable of absorbing pee and excrement. 

Because they are less dusty and far more comfortable than wood pellets, use wood shavings or wheat straws.

Enough Lighting

These animals favor well-lit environments. The pens should have openings, like windows, to provide adequate lighting and ventilation.

Maintain Regular Check-up from the Vet

It’s always important to consult your vet regularly to ensure they are healthy and help them recover if there are health issues.

Proper Diet for Spanish Goats

Even though these goats can endure poor pastures, you should give them high-quality goat food and access to clean, fresh water. 

Because Spanish goats produce less milk than other goat breeds, they don’t need as much water while lactating. 

However, they do require sufficient feeds and nutrients for the infants. To avoid pregnancy toxemia, don’t overfeed Spanish goats when they are pregnant.

Since they’reherbivores, they will happily eat weeds, bark, shrubs, and herbs. To reach leaves, they could also climb trees. 

Providing them with independence will enable them to search for grass while getting exercise.

If you don’t have access to enough grazing land, feed your goats with high-quality alfalfa hay and high-quality milk instead.

Frequently Asked Questions About Spanish Goats

What is unique about Spanish goats?

Their unique ability is that they can breed even if it’s not their season yet. And they are hardy because they can tolerate extreme weather, like hot temperatures.

You only need to provide sufficient clean water to keep them hydrated.

What type of breed is a Spanish goat?

They are part of a landrace breed. Though they are not part of the tallest goat breed, they are one of the best goats for meat production. And it’s been their purpose for over many decades.

How often do Spanish goats breed?

They can breed all year round. So, they can produce kids three times within two years.

And they can complete their reproduction cycle within 12 to 36 hours and their estrous cycle between 18 to 24 days.

Do female Spanish goats have horns?

Yes, just like the male goats, the females also have horns. The only difference is the size of the horns and their position.

For example, their male goats usually have large twisted horns, while females do not.

How long are Spanish goats pregnant?

These great Spanish goats’ gestation period is 155 days after fertilization. So they may breed again before the year ends.

Is the Spanish goat breed hardy?

Yes, they are hardy and can survive and thrive in harsh conditions.

For cashmere and meat production, purebred Spanish goats have been crossed with imported goat breeds.

Spanish Goats: Final Thoughts

Spanish goats are suitable for meat production and breeding because they can breed all year round. They can also survive extreme weather conditions and are excellent mothers to kids.

They’re also low maintenance and come in various beautiful colors.

However, although they can produce milk, it may not be enough to support your family’s dairy needs and establish a small business.

Goat Shelter Elements

EXTERIOR

Main House

INTERIOR

Bunks

Dining Area

Sections


Create a 2-sided feeder. One side would face the goats. The other would be in the human/hay storage area.


Angle catchment tray to funnel dropped hay back down to the center.

Grooming/Comfor Area


Protected People Places

(For the Hoomans)

Glove Line

Handwashing Station



Murphy Table