Tag: protection

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Tips to Keeping Run (Ground) Dry

🐔 1. Improve Drainage Before You Build

If the area already holds moisture, addressing drainage first will save you a ton of hassle later.

✅ Slightly Elevate the Coop & Run

  • If possible, raise the entire coop and run by adding a gravel base (4-6 inches deep).
  • This helps water drain away instead of pooling inside the run.

✅ Dig a French Drain (For Persistent Wet Areas)

  • If water naturally collects, dig a shallow trench filled with gravel and a perforated pipe to redirect water away from the run.
  • Cover it with more gravel or soil to blend in.

✅ Add a Sand or Gravel Layer Under the Run

  • Before adding bedding, lay down 2-4 inches of coarse sand or pea gravel to help with drainage.

🐔 2. Use the Right Bedding for Dry Ground

The best moisture-wicking bedding depends on your climate and preference.

✅ Coarse Sand (Best Overall for Drainage & Cleanliness)

  • Doesn’t hold moisture like dirt or straw.
  • Drains quickly and is easy to clean with a rake.
  • Chickens love to dust bathe in it.

✅ Gravel Base + Organic Bedding (For Heavier Rains)

  • 1-2 inches of gravel under bedding helps prevent mud.
  • On top, use pine shavings, chopped straw, or hemp bedding (all dry quickly).

✅ Deep Litter Method (For Cold or Wet Climates)

  • Instead of frequent cleaning, let bedding build up over time (6-12 inches deep).
  • Microbial action breaks down waste and generates warmth.
  • Works best with pine shavings, straw, or hemp bedding.

🐔 3. Cover & Divert Water from the Run

Even with shade, rain can make things muddy unless you manage it well.

✅ Waterproof Roofing or Tarp

  • If the run has a cover, make sure it’s pitched so rain runs off.
  • Use corrugated plastic or metal roofing for the best long-term protection.

✅ Gutters & Rain Barrels

  • If the coop has a roof, add a gutter system to catch rainwater.
  • Direct it away from the run or collect it for watering plants.

✅ Extend the Roof Beyond the Run Edges

  • Overhangs prevent rain from dripping inside the run and soaking the ground.

🐔 4. Keep Water Sources From Creating Mud

Sometimes, the waterer itself is the problem!

✅ Use Nipple or Cup Waterers Instead of Open Bowls

  • This prevents water from spilling and making a muddy mess.
  • Mount it off the ground to avoid splashing.

✅ Place Waterers on a Raised Platform

  • Use bricks, pavers, or a wooden pallet to keep them off the wet ground.

✅ Create a “Dry Zone” With Gravel or Sand

  • Around the waterer, place a small ring of sand, gravel, or stone pavers to absorb spills.

🐔 5. Rotate & Aerate the Run to Keep It Fresh

If your run is fixed, moisture buildup is inevitable—so maintenance is key.

✅ Rake & Turn the Bedding Weekly

  • Stirring bedding helps it dry faster and prevents compaction.

✅ Move the Run Occasionally (If Possible)

  • If you can, let an area rest while another section is used.

✅ Add Ventilation to the Coop & Run

  • Even in shade, extra airflow will help bedding dry faster.

🐔 What’s the Best Setup for Your Space?

If your run is completely fixed, I’d recommend:
✅ A slightly raised, well-drained gravel base
✅ Coarse sand + deep litter bedding
✅ A sloped roof with gutters to redirect rain
✅ A raised waterer to prevent spills

Layering the Ground in the Main Run:

  1. Pea Gravel (Base Layer)
    • Depth: 2-4 inches
    • This acts as the drainage layer. The gravel allows any excess moisture to flow through and keeps the ground from getting waterlogged.
    • It also helps elevate the bedding, so your chickens aren’t walking directly on damp soil.
  2. Coarse Sand (Middle Layer)
    • Depth: 2-4 inches
    • Sand is excellent for drainage and will help the bedding dry out more quickly, especially in wet or rainy conditions. It also helps keep the ground from becoming muddy.
    • Chickens love to dust bathe in sand, so it’s a great addition for both moisture control and chicken enrichment.
  3. Pine Shavings (Top Layer)
    • Depth: 2-4 inches (adjust based on how often you clean)
    • Pine shavings absorb moisture and odors, and they’re soft for your chickens’ feet.
    • This layer will also serve as a comfortable bedding for your chickens, keeping them dry and cozy.

Why This Works:

  • Pea gravel creates good drainage so moisture doesn’t build up.
  • Sand wicks away moisture and makes the area more comfortable for chickens to scratch and dust bathe in.
  • Pine shavings soak up any remaining moisture, while also providing bedding for comfort and hygiene.

This should keep things dry, clean, and comfortable the girls, even during rainy seasons.

🌟 Weekly Maintenance:

  1. Rake the Bedding
    • Fluff up the pine shavings and sand to help them dry out and aerate the bedding.
    • This will also help prevent it from becoming compacted and allow moisture to escape.
  2. Check for Wet Spots
    • If any areas seem to be holding water, you can add more gravel or sand to improve drainage in those spots.
    • Make sure there are no puddles forming, as standing water can lead to bacteria or mold growth.
  3. Clean Out the Waterers
    • If you’re using open water bowls, rinse them weekly to prevent algae growth and keep them clean.
    • Nipple or cup waterers are a great option to reduce spills and prevent dampness.

🌟 Monthly Maintenance:

  1. Turn Over the Bedding
    • Stir up the bedding in the run to keep it from becoming too compacted.
    • This helps air circulate, which speeds up the drying process and keeps the area fresher.
  2. Top Off Bedding Layers
    • If the bedding has settled, add a fresh layer of pine shavings to ensure your chickens have a clean, soft surface to walk on.
  3. Check for Gaps in the Hardware Cloth
    • Inspect the run’s hardware cloth for any weak spots or potential openings that could allow predators to squeeze through.
  4. Check the Roof/Canopy
    • If your run has a tarp or roof, make sure it’s still intact and that no rainwater is pooling on top.

🌟 Seasonal Maintenance:

  1. Spring Cleaning (After Winter)
    • This is a great time to do a more thorough cleaning of the entire run and coop.
    • Deep clean the floor by removing old bedding and replenishing with fresh material.
    • Scrub the waterers and feeders, and inspect the coop for any wear and tear from the weather.
  2. Winter Prep
    • Before cold weather hits, make sure your run’s roof is waterproof and all the bedding layers are in good shape.
    • You may want to add more insulation or move the waterer to an area that’s more protected from freezing.

🌟 Occasional Maintenance:

  1. Add More Gravel or Sand
    • If you notice any spots that have become too soggy, add gravel or sand to improve drainage and help dry out the ground.
    • Gravel can be added underneath the sand layer if needed, or you can top off the sand layer to keep it dry and clean.
  2. Check for Pest Activity
    • If you’re in a humid area, check the bedding for signs of mold or fungus.
    • If you notice pests or smell mildew, you may need to replace some of the bedding and improve ventilation.

🌟 Bonus Tips:

  • Rotating or Moving Your Run: If you’re able to move the run occasionally, it can help prevent wear on the ground and provide your girls with fresh areas to explore.
  • Use a Compost Pile: Over time, bedding will break down, so consider starting a compost pile for the old material. Chickens love to help turn the compost if it’s near the run!
  • Watch for Scratching: Chickens are great at scratching to find bugs and worms, but they can also create uneven ground. If this becomes a problem, you can add more bedding and top it off every couple of weeks.

These simple but consistent steps should help maintain a dry, healthy, and happy environment for your flock year-round! 🐓💧

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Raised Garden Bed Samples

Raised beds can be built on hillsides to improve drainage, extend the growing season, and make gardening easier. 

Benefits 

  • Improved drainage: Raised beds on hillsides can improve drainage.
  • Extended growing season: Raised beds on hillsides can extend the growing season.
  • Even water and nutrient distribution: Raised beds on hillsides can help ensure even water and nutrient distribution.
  • Reduced erosion: Raised beds on hillsides can reduce erosion.
  • Less weed growth: Raised beds on hillsides can reduce weed growth.
  • More control over soil quality: Raised beds on hillsides can give you more control over soil quality.
  • Easier gardening: Raised beds on hillsides can make gardening easier.

Construction 

  1. Dig out footing to approximate level.
  2. Add a thin layer of gravel to the footing for better drainage.
  3. Assemble the bottom layer.
  4. Cut and attach upper course boards.
  5. Attach end boards to the frame.
  6. Fill the bed with soil.
  7. Cut and attach seat rail boards.

Tips

  • For very steep slopes, you may need to build beds on top of each other. 
  • You can use stakes to help ensure the bed is stable. 
  • You can use braces to secure the corners and boards. 
  • You can use a plastic damp proof membrane to line the bed. 

You can also watch this video to learn how to build a raised garden bed on a slope:


Fun concepts to consider:

(Corten Steel Fence)

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Chicken Coop & Run: Defend from Predators

Top 10 Ideas for a Predator-proof Chicken Coop

Written byJoseph Truini

Chicken rearing can be a great hobby, but protecting your flock from predators can be challenging. This is especially true considering that both chicken and their eggs are prey for a wide range of predators. From hawks and eagles to land predators like raccoons, coyotes, foxes, bobcats, weasels’ skunks, snakes, and even neighbourhood dogs, chickens have many hungry enemies. Worse, it can take only one voracious predator to wipe out your entire flock. The best way to avoid the heartbreak of losing any of your beloved birds is to make your chicken coop predator-proof. Here are 10 ways and tips to secure your chicken coop and protect your flock against predators.

1. Elevate your chicken coop

Raising your chicken coop off the ground offers a host of worthwhile benefits. Besides naturally protecting your flock from burrowing animals, elevating your coop prevents moisture buildup and wood rot, which can create access points into the coop. Preventing moisture buildup also helps the wood last longer.

Ideally, you want to raise your coop at least 12 inches off the ground. The space underneath provides extra space for your chickens to roam and scratch while offering shelter from aerial predators, inclement weather, and the afternoon sun.

Elevated chicken coop from predators
Elevate your chicken coop at least 12″ from the ground

Notably, no matter how high you raise your coop, you will still need solid flooring to ensure predators that can take unorthodox approaches can’t break into the coop from underneath.

2. Use hardware cloth

While the chicken wire is a more economical choice for constructing chicken runs, it doesn’t stand up well against many predators. Simply, it is designed to keep chickens in, not predators out. That’s why you should consider hardware cloth wherever you would use chicken wire. This includes on windows, the run, and around the bottom of the coop.

Hardware cloth is rigid to deter raccoons and foxes and has small openings so hawks can’t reach chickens with their talons. The small openings also help keep snakes and members of the weasel family from burrowing and breaking into the coop or running.

3. Install a predator apron

Having a concrete or any other deterrent floor can keep predators from digging into the coop, but what about the run where your chickens spend their daytime? To outsmart sly predators like foxes, bobcats, and raccoons, install a predator apron around the perimeter of your chicken run: dig a 12-inch-deep trench around the coop and run, and then bury the hardware cloth in the ground.

12-inch-deep trench around the coop and run, with buried hardware cloth
Protect your chicken coop with 12″ deep hardware cloth buried underground

This won’t stop cunny predators from digging, but it will keep them from getting into the run or coop. Because predators can’t see the buried hardware cloth, they will start to dig until they encounter the formidable barrier. Without the hardware-cloth apron, predators can possibly dig into the run and prey on your chickens or their eggs.

4. Fortifying the Run: Top to Bottom

Ensuring the security of your chickens encompasses safeguarding them from aerial as well as ground-based threats. Covering the run significantly mitigates the risk posed by these predators, whether you reside in urban or rural settings.

A covered run acts as a deterrent against flying and climbing predators like eagles, hawks, falcons, and owls. Utilizing a solid roof or a covering of hardware cloth is advocated for optimal protection. Budget-conscious poultry enthusiasts might opt for stringing netting across the top of the run, although it’s less effective against climbing predators capable of chewing through the netting.

In scenarios where the threat level is pronounced, amplifying the security measures is a logical step. For those managing small to medium chicken coops, enveloping the entire floor of the run with hardware cloth provides an additional tier of predator-proof protection. While this method may stretch your budget, it serves as a robust defense against the anguish associated with losing your birds to predators. For larger runs, a cost-effective alternative could be laying down hardware cloth a few feet around the inside perimeter of the run, instead of covering the entire floor, providing a substantial level of protection without incurring excessive expenses.

The amalgamation of covering both the top and the bottom of the run, perhaps coupled with a predator proof chicken coop, substantially enhances the safety of your flock, forming a fortified haven against the myriad of predators lurking around.

hardware cloth around the chicken coop run
Lay down hardware cloth a few feet around the inside perimeter of the chicken run

The idea is to fully protect your birds from predators, including the sly ones, which can take unconventional approaches. All in all, you should ONLY commit to covering the entire floor with hardware cloth if it is absolutely necessary. 

5. Close the coop and run doors at dusk

Nocturnal predators can appear anytime after dusk and prey on your beloved feathered friends. To protect your flock from diurnal predators that might hunt until late evening and nocturnal predators that might begin hunting prematurely, close and lock the coop and run doors as soon as all your birds have entered their coop. 

When you are away from home and not able to lock up the coop and run at dusk, take advantage of modern technology. There is no shortage of automatic coop doors that you can program to suit your needs.

Notably, even with an automatic coop door, it is imperative always to check your coop when back home to ensure all the birds are in and secured. An opossum can come in at dusk and deliberately hide in the run to wait to treat itself in the morning.

6. Eliminate food and things that attract wildlife to your chicken coop

The prime idea behind predator-proofing your chicken coop is to protect your flock against attacks. So, along with securing your coop, it is also crucial to avoid things that might attract predators to your coop. 

One of the things that attract a variety of predators and pests to your coop is chicken feed. Finding a safe place outside the coop to keep the chicken feed at night can help minimize threats. Alternatively, you can use treadle feeders, which conceal the feed, lowering the temptation for rodents and other egg predators to come in. 

If you’re fond of feeding your chickens treats,  check and clean up any scraps your birds don’t eat.

7. Use guardian animals

To the surprise of many, pets can give your chicken much-needed protection. Geese, guineas, donkeys, llamas, some breeds of dogs, and even roosters have a reputation for being excellent flock guardians. 

You can take advantage of these guardian animals to protect your flock. Roosters can sacrifice their own life battling a predator to protect their hens. On the other hand, a guardian dog will naturally spend time patrolling your property and bark at any predator that shows up to scare it away as it alerts you. 

For chicken growers considering a guardian dog, Great Pyrenees, Maremmas, Anatolian Shepherds, and Akbash have excellent guarding instincts. You want to be cautious not to adopt a dog that will prey on your chickens instead of protecting them. 

If you live in rural areas where livestock codes are relatively forgiving, you will have a wide range of options regarding what guardian animals you can keep. 

8. Provide indoor roosts and train them to return to the coop before dusk

Chickens are more vulnerable when asleep. Thankfully, they instinctively sleep off the ground. Furnishing your chicken coop with enough roosting bars can ensure that your birds remain safe, even if predators make it into the coop. Besides, indoor roosts ensure your chickens are not tempted to roost outside, where they can be easy prey.

Even with roosts, you will want to train your chickens to retreat into the coop as the daylight fades, as a number of predators are usually active at this time. And as with training other pets, training chickens is based on a reward system. Reward your birds with feed or treats in the evening to encourage them to return to the coop some minutes before nightfall. It won’t take long before they learn to flock to their home at dusk.

9. Use secure door latches and two-step locks

Some predators, like raccoons, are intelligent and adept at opening latches and simple locks. Yes, they have mastered how latches work.

lock system for chicken coop doors
Use secure door latches and two-step locks

To deter a determined raccoon, use a lock that requires opposable thumbs to open. Such locks will prove bothersome, leaving predators with the option to leave. 

10. Use predator deterrent accessories

Besides making your chicken coop predator-proof, you can tap on the benefits of deterrents like lights with a motion sensor, electric chicken fencing, and decoy animals. 

Although the effectiveness of these deterrents varies, combining them with proven methods can ensure you don’t lose any of your birds to predators.

https://easycoops.com/predator-proof-chicken-coop

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Chicken Coop Build Considerations

  • Nice looking
  • Tidy
  • Good Run Size
  • Solar Door
  • Safety Latch/Opener (Inside Run)
  • Landscape Mesh (1/4″ black)
  • Smart Ventilation “Double Windows”
  • Simple Chain Supports
  • Solar Implementation

  • Freeze-Proof Water
  • Natural Limbs for Roosts (eg: thick birch branches)
  • Self-Closing Hinges with Latch
  • Removeable Plexi-Glass Panes for Winter
  • 4 sq ft/chicken in coop
  • 10 sq ft/chicken in enclosed run
  • Nesting Boxes: 12″x12″; One Nest Box / 3-4 hens
  • This is a 10’x16′ coop with a 10’x16′ run.
  • Heat Plate (not lamp) in coop in winter
  • Bedding: Pine shavings
  • Bury 1/4″ hardware cloth 2′ into ground to protect from burrowing animals
  • Translucent solid roof to protect from raptors and racoons
  • Line perimeter of run and coop with pavers or large stones to help prevent digging predators
  • Use bricks to raise pellet feeder and water off ground
  • Store feed and pellets and treats in galvanized trash cans
  • Food, grit, oyster shells. Purina Layena pellets
  • Chicken Guard solar door
  • Heated water dispenser for winter (Eg: All-Season Poultry Fount)